A Mason City Tradition
In the movie North by Northwest, Cary Grant's character says, "In the world of advertising, there's no such thing as a lie. There's only expedient exaggeration." The Northwestern Steakhouse in Mason City needs no exaggeration, or even advertising for that matter. People line up out front an hour before the doors even open in order to be the first of the evening to savor one of their world-famous steaks.
Although the menu includes fish, chicken and lamb, I only saw beef on the plates of diners sitting at the twelve intimate booths and tables. If the Northwestern Steakhouse was anywhere else, it would be considered exclusive because of its size and the intimacy between the staff and clientele. Instead, the unassuming restaurant with old Hollywood decor is very welcoming.
First in line on the Friday night I visited was Arlys Seaton, with her daughter Joelle. Joelle was visiting from California and said, "The Northwestern Steakhouse is on the list when I visit. It's not if we're coming, but which night or nights." They were here the previous weekend too.
Fiercely loyal customers are ready and willing to give advice to newcomers. I was told to save the bread they bring at the beginning of the meal so I could use it to "sop up the olive oil au jus from the steak." One patron advised me to just order water. "There is no need to taint the taste of the steak with anything else, she told me. Another customer even saved the last two bites of his fillet to eat as dessert after he finished the rest of his meal.
These steaks are the things of legends in Mason City and beyond. Owners Bill and Ann Papouchis said people come to the Northwestern Steakhouse from all over the world. When a wind farm was put up in the area, the engineers from Denmark were in all the time.
Due to the limited menu, ordering is simple. Pick your cut of meat (everyone recommends the fillet) and choose how you'd like it done. Veteran waitress Cindy Papouchis says, "The rarer, the better, especially for the fillet." The entree arrives at your table on a plain white plate, swimming in a sea of olive oil, butter and Greek seasoning. The rest of the ingredients have been top secret since Bill's dad, Tony, started making the steaks over 80 years ago. Ann says, "You'll never find anyone else with a steak like this."
Tony's portrait hangs above the old fashion cash register, watching over generation after generation of customers enjoy his Greek heritage and recipes. Tony started the business with his friend, Pete Maduras in 1920; it was originally called Pete's Place. In the 1950s, they moved the business to its current location and it became the Northwestern Steakhouse when Tony bought Pete out in 1965.
Not much has changed since then. Bill told his friends when we was a teenager that he'd never follow in his dad's footsteps in the restaurant business, but he seems happy that he took over after Tony passed away. He has since added a lounge area to the upstairs. Customers can choose a beverage from the small selection of wine, beer and spirits and play cards until a table in the dining room becomes available.
Ann said she would love to see the steakhouse go on forever. "I'm proud to be a part of a tradition that has been such a big part of people's lives." Although it doesn't sound like the steakhouse will be going anywhere anytime soon, you should still head north to the northwest side of Mason City for a melt in your mouth, one of a kind steak.
|